‘MAMA’, Skin-Contact Gruner Veltliner, Austria 2023

Just 600 bottles of this unique take on Austria’s ubiquitous Grüner Veltliner have been made. Skin-contact, barrel-fermentation and lees ageing are rarely synonymous with Grüner production, the style being typically aromatic and varietally pure. Here, however, we have it all going on! Seven days maceration on the skins before the juice was transferred into used oak barrels for fermentation, and then six month in tank on the lees to add breadth and texture. The resulting wine fresh and floral retaining the characteristic white pepper notes but, also, a distinct fennel character. There is a racy acidity, with lemon, lime and crisp green apple notes. Alongside the bright fresh fruit character there are touches of almond and dried orange peel. The skin-contact has added an appetising grip and there’s a complex savoury finish to compliment the juicy fruit.